How to grow tomatoes
March 26, 2010 by admin
Filed under Gardening Tips, Vegetable
One of the tastiest pleasures for gardeners is a ripe tomato, picked at the height of flavor. Eaten by itself with a touch of salt or pepper, added to a garden fresh salad, or placed between layers of bacon and fresh bread in a BLT, this versatile favorite is one of the true delights of summer. There are dozens of tasty varieties to try, and all of them need just about the same requirements. Growing delicious, nutritious tomatoes isn’t all that hard if you follow these basic guidelines.
First of all, choose a growing spot that features plenty of sun. When it comes to tomatoes, the more sun the better. Unless you live in a climate in which summer temps regularly climb into the 90’s, you tomato plants will do just fine if you keep them well watered. On the other end of the spectrum, if you spring and summer temperatures are on the cool side, consider surrounding the plants with black plastic that will concentrate heat and enhance growth. Perforate the material so water can flow through into the soil. Another option is to plant the tomatoes alongside a brick wall that faces the sun. It will absorb lots of heat and radiate it out to the plants long after the sun has bid adieu. 
Secondly, the dirt on tomatoes is that they can thrive at any middle of the road pH level soil as long as the soil is nutrient-rich. Therefore, adding a 3-4 inch layer of compost around your plants, and watering through this layer, is essential to healthy plants. Only mix the compost into the top layer of soil if it is rocky or excessively sandy. Otherwise, spreading it on top is the right method.
Thirdly, give your tomato plants proper spacing, which depends on your planting style. Staked plants should have 2 to 3 feet of space between and around them. The distances for un-staked plants should be 4-5 feet on all sides. It is also recommended that plants of the same variety tomato NOT be planted side by side, so that if disease occurs or pests infest, there is less likelihood the problems will spread.
Beyond these basics, keep these tips in mind as you grow juicy tomatoes:
• Warm the soil ahead of time by covering the ground with black plastic for 2 weeks before setting out your tomato plants. Giving them a start in warm soil will get root development off to a great beginning.
• When you put in the tomatoes, plant them deep enough so that the first ring of leaves is buried. For most plants, this would be a bad idea, but tomatoes have the ability to grow roots out of their stems, and planting with this method gives them the chance to develop a healthier root structure that can absorb more water and nutrients. When coupled with sun, this spells more and larger fruits!
• Wait to mulch until the air temperatures warm up, if at all. Mulching cools the soil because it locks in moisture. You want warm soil for optimal growth, so only mulch if you live in a region where air temperatures hit high 80’s F or above. Otherwise, plan to water more often, and put up with the inconvenience by envisioning a tasty slab of tomato on a soon-to-be-enjoyed sandwich!
• Prune and pinch suckers that develop, especially in the crotch of two stems. Also, pinch off one out of every six branches. The results will be more plant energy invested in producing big, juicy tomatoes, and less spent on simply adding more stems and branches.
• Plant a good mix of determinate and indeterminate type varieties. Determinate varieties tend to produce a large amount of tomatoes that ripen at once. This is perfect when you plan to can them or make a large batch of sauce or salsa. Indeterminate varieties produce fruits that ripen a few at a time, which is great when you want to have newly fresh tomatoes for the longest period of time.
Tomatoes growing products, seeds, books & more on Amazon
Felknor Ventures TT021112 Topsy Turvy Tomato & Herb Planter
Felknor Ventures 82506 Topsy Turvy Upside-Down Tomato Planter
Grow the Best Tomatoes: Storey Country Wisdom Bulletin A-189 (Storey Country Wisdom Bulletin, a-189)
Beefsteak Tomato Heirloom Certified Organic Seeds
Cherry Tomato Sugar Sweetie Certified Organic Seeds 60 Seeds
3 Tomato Planter Bags for Decks, Patios and Balconies
Miracle-Gro 100042 Tomato Plant Food 1.5 lb.
Planning a seasonal garden
March 22, 2010 by admin
Filed under Gardening Tips, General
In whatever climate we live, it is our desire to have a garden that stays in bloom for as long as possible. When the first signs of spring manifest themselves in warm late-winter breezes we start looking for crocuses to push their way through the soil or snow. And we want our beloved garden to keep producing color until the frost finally finishes the Chrysanthemums in autumn. In between, planning a seasonal garden that will produce bountiful blooms week in and week out is the goal many green-thumb gurus aspire to. When you do enough research to know when your favorite plants will be in bloom, you’ll have the facts you need for designing and planting a garden that keeps its color continuously.
In this guide we’ll offer some planning and planting pointers along with a list of favorite perennials and when you can expect them to bloom. For planning purposes, take paper and pencil and sketch out the garden you’d like to have. Let color be your guiding influence here. Do you have a circular garden? Place colors next to one another as well as across from one another that go well together. Place yellow next to red and across from purple, for example, for a richer color pastiche. Or try green next to pink and across from orange for a zestier confluence of color. If your garden is rectangular and viewed from front or side, but not all angles, your color scheming is easier. Find a color chart online or at the paint store, and select colors that work well side by side for optimum beauty.
The next step is to make sure that each segment of your garden will have color spring, summer, and into autumn. This is quite simple when you have a reliable flower chart at your disposal. See the list below to get you started, but you might want to purchase a flower encyclopedia for a more comprehensive list of options.
Remember, too, that every garden needs to be planted with the height of the mature flowers in mind. In a garden that will be viewed from one or two sides, plant shorter flowers to the front, with gradually taller blooms working towards the back. This will prevent any of your cherished blossoms from being obscured, and will give rich texture and depth to your garden’s visual characteristics. In a round garden that its admirers can walk completely around, plant shorter flowers in the front row and increase height as you work your way toward the middle. Does this seem overly complex? The truth is, when you have a list of perennials that records their expected height at full growth it becomes quite easy and very enjoyable to plan for. And when you see it come to life in spring, summer, and autumn, your pleasure at what you’ve brought about will almost know no bounds!
Okay, here’s a short list to get you started.
Spring bloomers include: Daffodil, Crocus, Iris Reticulata, Chionodoxa, Creeping phlox, Pasque flower, Lungwort and Virginia bluebells.
Late spring to early summer blossomers include: Siberian iris, German iris, Peonies, Baptisia, Coreopsis, Salvia and Candytuft, Bleeding Heart, Cranesbill, Columbine, Dianthus, Lamium, and Coral Bells.
The best choices for summer include: Hostas, Border Phlox, Black Eyed Susan, daylily varieties, Purple Coneflower, Yarrow, Indian Blanket, Boltania, Bee Balm, Bulb lilies, and Penstemon.
For autumn color, select: Assorted Sedums, Asters, Windflower, Toadlily, and Japanese Anemone.
When selecting flowers to provide a season full of color, don’t overlook annuals. They can be used to fill in bare spots, and many varieties offer hardy blooms that will continue to blossom for months!
Related Books on planning a seasonal garden
Perennials Short and Tall: A Seasonal Progression of Flowers for Your Garden (Quarry Books)
Joy in Your Garden: A Seasonal Guide to Gardening
How to Start your Garden Design
March 4, 2010 by admin
Filed under Gardening Tips
If you are planning a new garden and are considering how to design it, remember it is always wise to begin with the end in mind! What kind of garden do you want to have when it is completed? Are you hoping to achieve a minimalist look in which each plant has plenty of space and invites attention? Do you prefer a fuller look with more crowding, more color, and an overall effect of abundance? In the former scenario, you’ll tend to choose unique, stand alone plants with lots of individual character. If the latter description fits you better, you’ll select more upright plants that blend well with others, to create a pleasing variety of sizes and colors. Of course, many choose the middle road, and eclectic mix of plants that suit their fancy while co-existing very nicely together. Follow these basic steps and you’ll achieve a garden you enjoy caring for and you simply love to be around.
First, put your garden design on paper, for like with many things, success begins on the drawing board. Use graph paper and sketch out what you want your garden to look like, using one or two squares per foot of garden space. Draw in natural elements such as existing trees and man-made elements like patios or walk ways. Consider what types of plants you desire in each section, whether perennials, annuals, flowering shrubs, or perhaps ground cover or herbs.
Secondly, balance two things, color and size. Make sure that colors that are growing next to one another complement each other, rather than clashing with one another. Secondly, keep size issues in perspective. A large, spreading bush might completely overshadow a small perennial with delicate blossoms if grown next door to each other. Therefore, choose plants the will work well side by side. In this discussion, we’ll also remind you that it is important to know when the flowers you choose to use bloom. Daisies and others bloom for months. That makes them an awesome garden choice. Others bloom for only a week or two. Be sure to select flowers for each section of the garden that bloom at different times, so you won’t end up with any bare spots as spring turns to summer and then autumn.
The third basic step is to evaluate your soil and improve it if needed. A soil testing kit is an essential part of good gardening. It will allow you to determine the pH balance – the potential Hydrogen balance – of the soil, which determines whether the soil is too alkaline, too acidic, or just right. Most plants grow well in the middle of the spectrum, but knowing the exact makeup of your soil will allow you to add acidity or lower it for plants that do better with one or the other. Be sure to see our guides “How to Test and Adjust Soil pH” and “How to Improve the Quality of the Soil” for all the details.
Next, choose a theme for your garden. Victorian English gardens will employ different plants than a Japanese garden. Low moisture areas will have more succulents than rainy, moist climates. Know your tastes, your climate, and the amount of time you have to devote to the garden, and you’ll discover a style that is right. Keep in mind this basic principle: when a garden has one or two primary angles from which it can be viewed, keep taller, bushier plants to the back. When the garden can be viewed from 3 or more angles, keep the taller plants to the middle, working your way toward the edges with successively shorter plants.
The final step is to get out into the yard and dig some dirt! Put your plans into practice and use our other guides to give you easy to follow directions every step of the way! You’ll end up with a garden you look forward to visiting and working in every day.
How to Improve the Quality of the Soil
March 3, 2010 by admin
Filed under Gardening Tips
Of course, the first step to making your soil healthier is to know what condition it is in. While most gardening or nursery centers will test your soil for you, the process requires only a simple, inexpensive soil testing kit, and can easily be done right out in your garden. If your enjoy gardening, then pick up a soil testing kit and become a DIY soil agent! That testing kit will measure the pH balance of your dirt, which stands for “potential Hydrogen,” and will let you know if there is a proper balance on the alkaline/acidity spectrum. If acidity is high, you will want to add calcium to the soil, in the form of lime. The key to producing healthy soil is to add large amounts of compost, which naturally brings pH into balance by moderating acids and boosting alkaline levels.
There’s more to high quality soil than pH balance. You also need soil that will hold s
ome moisture, but not too much. In other words, sand is not good growing soil because water drains through it quickly before plants can absorb the moisture they need. At the other extreme, soil that is composed of too much clay will hold water against plant roots and will eventually produce rot, mold, or other conditions which threaten plants. If you have soil at either end of the range, the second step is to turn over the top 6 to 8 inches of soil and add to it a large dose of compost, mulch, and rich, dark, top soil. Turn, mix, and stir the soil until a new, healthy bed has been produced. Recheck the pH balance, and take measures to fix it, if needed.
The third step is to optimize the biology of the soil. Healthy soil is jam-packed with living organisms that affect plant growth. Good bacteria break down soil elements to provide good nutrition to plants. Therefore, it is wise to add organic elements that contain large amounts or living organisms. Quality manure from cattle, horses or rabbits contain high amounts of good bacteria. Find local, inexpensive sources of these manures and start by adding a little bit at a time to the soil, and see how plants respond. As the farmer or animal raiser you get the manure from what their suggestions are. In all likelihood, they use the manure on their own garden and will be a great source of helpful advice.
Compost is essential to soil health, so the fourth step is to have a quality compost pile going at all times. See our guides on compost for all of the details. The wonderful thing about compost is that it takes things normally thought of as waste – dead leaves, flower clipping and pruning material, and kitchen vegetable scraps – and turns them into the very life-blood of your garden. Savvy gardeners realize that nothing organic is ever waste, but can always be used to grow the next generation of flowers, shrubs, vegetables, or herbs.
The final step is to add mulch or ground cover around trees and shrubs that need higher water content. Mulch holds in moisture, so the roots of the plant have more opportunity to absorb it. Ground cover plants keep the hot sun off soil, which prevents the dirt from drying out before the larger shrubs and trees can make use of the water.
Improving the soil will lead to healthier more productive plants. It requires some trial and error, but by the end of the first or second gardening season, you’ll feel like a soil quality professional!
How to Test and Adjust Soil pH
If you’ve ever wondered what the letters pH stand for, it is “potential Hydrogen” and refers to the level of acidity in the soil. The measurement of potential Hydrogen forms a spectrum from 0 to 14, and soils that test 7.0 pH and below are considered to be acidic, and those above that level are called alkaline. Moist climates tend to produce acidic soils, while dry climates generally produce alkaline soils.
The measurement is crucial for gardening because each plant does best within a range on the alkaline/acidic spectrum. For example, Clematis thrives in more alkaline soil, while rhododendrons prosper when more acid is found in the soil. When you purchase plants, the packaging will often tell you what pH level they prefer. If that information is not present, it is likely that pH is not a major factor in their ability to thrive – that is, they’ll do well in most soils.
The key soil element related to pH is calcium, often in the form of lime. Calcium neutralizes acid, so the higher the levels of calcium the more alkaline the soil will be. Many plants will do well in most soil conditions, but for the sensitive types you want to grow in your garden, it is essential that you be able to test the soil’s pH.
Most nurseries or garden centers will test the soil for you if you take in a sample. However, most experienced gardeners like to have the necessary means of testing the soil themselves. A variety of testing kit styles and brands are available that allow you to quickly and accurately measure the pH balance of the soil in your garden. Here’s how it works: The kit contains a tube that you fill with a small amount of soil from your garden. To the soil you add a few drops of the test solution, and then you cap and shake the tube vigorously to mix the contents, before leaving it to settle for an hour. The solution will turn color, and you match that color to the chart that comes with the test kit, showing you your soil’s place on the spectrum. It is a good idea to test soils from 2-4 locations in your garden when evaluating a new garden plot, one in which agents have not been added to adjust soil pH.
Adjusting soil pH to produce a level that best suits what you are planting is fairly easy. The best way to bring soil into natural balance is to add large doses of quality compost. This compost can be easily made at home in your yard. Our guide “Understanding the Basics of Composting” is a great place to begin. Beyond composting, if you need a more alkaline soil, add hydrated lime to the soil at a rate of 4 ounces per square yard of ground. Mix it in very well and wait one to two days before measuring again. Add hydrated lime until the soil tests show the level you desire. Sandy and loam soils will respond more quickly to lime, while clay or peaty soils will require more, since they absorb it more readily. Hardwood ash and bone meal are also good sources for reducing acid levels to make soil more alkaline.
A more acidic soil is produced by adding ground rock sulfur according to manufacturer’s directions. Other, more natural, sources include peat moss, wood chips, and composted leaves. Whether you are raising or lowering pH, it is best to do so gradually, over the course of one to two seasons. This will prevent rapid changes from damaging existing plant root structures.
Once again, while most plants and vegetables will do well in diverse soils, when you have a plant favorite that is particular about its pH level, it makes sense to have a testing kit available. You will be able to give your plant the soil it wants in a few easy steps, and it will show its appreciation with vigorous, healthy growth and blooms.
Basics of Planting Roses
February 11, 2010 by admin
Filed under Flower, Gardening Tips
Roses are often considered the grandest bloom in the garden’s panoply of flowers. A full-blown rose is a universe of beauty within itself, exquisite, delicate, and so very fragrant. Unfortunately, roses also have a reputation for being temperamental, fragile, and easy to kill. That reputation is unfair! Even beginning gardeners will have wonderful success with growing roses if they adhere to some basic planting techniques. Be sure to also see our guide on Pruning Roses and Flowering Bushes for help in caring for your bushes.
The first step is to till your flower bed to a depth of at least 18 inches, and 24 inches wide. If you use a motorized rotary tiller, and the blades do not reach down that deep, remove eight to twelve inches of soil with a shovel, and then till the soil beneath. If doing the job by hand, dig out the bed to the desired depth, and then back fill it half-way with dirt that has been turned, separated, and loosened. This deep-till method loosens soil to a greater depth, allowing for the rapid growth of rose roots, which is the first step to magnificent blooms. It also opens passages for oxygen and water to get to the roots, which will contribute to radiant, colorful flowers.
On top of the layer of soil that half-fills the trench, add a layer of barnyard manure or rich compost. For developing your own compost, see our Guide “Understanding the Basics of Composting.” Then add soil until the trench is filled.
The next step is to prepare a hole in which to place your rose plant. As with most shrubs and trees, dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. As for depth, it should be one inch deeper than the height of the root ball. The purpose is to give the roots rooms to spread out laterally without planting the ball so deep the stalks, or canes, of the rose plants might be put in jeopardy of rotting in wet soil.
Now, remove the rose plant from any container or cloth that surrounds it. Gently loosen the roots, being careful not to pull hard on them. Damaging roots at this stage will stunt growth and blossom production. Soak the root ball in a pail of water for 15-30 minutes to allow it to absorb a healthy drink before entering the ground.
Place the plant in the hole and hold it steady with one hand. With the other hand, backfill the hole gently, using your other hand or a hand trowel. Gently pack soil around the roots. Never compress it by stepping on it. Soak the planted rose bush with water, and then fill in any gaps in the soil created by settling. The best time to plant roses is between October and April when the ground is not frozen. Potted roses purchased from a nursery may be planted into May, but require more watering and oversight to make sure they are thriving and not drying out. Growing beautiful roses is not beyond the reach of any gardener. Careful attention to these basic principles will get your newly planted roses off to a great start!
Flower Gardening Tips: Good Soil Produces Great Flowers
January 14, 2010 by admin
Filed under Flower, Gardening Tips
Ralph Waldo Emerson said, “The Earth laughs in flowers.” Any gardener who has known the joy of working with these bright, aromatic blessings of nature recognizes the truth of Emerson’s words. In this guide we want to help you get your next flower garden off to a great start, so the earth around your home will be merry with fragrant color from early spring through late fall.
A great garden begins in the dirt. Preparing the soil to embrace your bulbs, seeds, annuals, or perennials will guarantee them the right start toward thriving beauty. It helps to picture your flower beds as a living ecosystem in which your plantings are a part of the whole. Maintaining the total health of the beds will allow each part of it to prosper. Therefore, use chemical fertilizers and herbicides in limited quantities, if you must use them at all. They tend to eliminate helpful organisms such as earthworms and beneficial fungi from the soil. In their place, choose compost or natural mulch. Mulch is the layer above the soil found in forests. It is comprised of decomposing leaves and other organic matter being turned back into the soil from which it sprang. Replicate this system in your garden by adding leaves and grass clippings to the soil to enrich it.
If you are planting established annuals or perennials, choose healthy plants. Inspect flowers before you buy them, or upon their arrival if they were purchased by phone or online. Placing healthy plants in healthy soil makes a winning combination! Choose a cloudy day for transplanting your flowers. This will prevent adding stress on what will already be a big day for them. Some experts suggest early evening plantings, to allow the flowers the longest period of time to adjust before the next sunrise. Spring planting is best, but hardy annuals will be just fine, even in the heat of summer, if plenty of water is supplied. Mums do best if planted only after the first cold snap of the fall.
Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball for planting. Make it deep enough to cover the root ball, but not so deep the stems will be buried. Covered stems in most soil invite rot that will make quick work of your new friends. Remove the plant from the container, and gently work your fingers around and through the root ball, to stimulate activity and to separate the individual roots so they can spread out more effectively. Set the plant in the hole and gently pack the remaining space with the removed dirt. It is important to remove air pockets, or the soil will settle with the first watering, exposing roots to the sun and to pests.
Once in the soil, give your flowers a good soaking. Be sure to apply the water gently, so roots are not dug up by the force of the spray. A watering can of hose attachment with a diffuser work best. Inspect your plants for settling of the soil, and build up those areas. Cover the area with mulch, being careful not to pack it against the stem. The purpose is to hold water in the soil, not against the exposed stem, which may cause rot.
Take care to provide a healthy place for your beloved flowers to grow. They’ll laugh more heartily, and you will find yourself laughing along with them.
Flowers Gardening Books & Products
Products :
Grandmother’s Cut Flower Garden Seed Mix 15 Grams 22 Varieties
Songbird Mix Seeds Large Packet 40 Grams 12 Different Flowers
Stack & Grow – Indoor / Outdoor Stackable Flower & Garden Planter With Wheel Base
Books :
The Big Book of Flower Gardening: A Guide to Growing Beautiful Annuals, Perennials, Bulbs, and Roses
